Traditionally known as the Little Italy of Brooklyn, Bensonhurst is steeped in Italian American history. Boasting over 20,000 Italian speakers in the year 2000, the neighborhood was a tight-knit enclave with many shops specifically catering to the community. However, as time passed, many Italians moved away from Bensonhurst, and the impacts of this can be seen on the once-thriving local businesses in the area.
This month, two staple storefronts in the neighborhood announced they will cease operations. The first to break the news was SAS Italian Records, a specialty store with a robust inventory of Italian CDs, records, and accessories. “This is breaking my heart, I’m having a breakdown: this is my identity,” said Silvana Conte, whose parents opened SAS Italian Records nearly 60 years ago after immigrating from Ponza, Italy. “The store was everything to my family … [but] inheritances being what they are, it’s not up to me anymore.” She noted that the store hadn’t been turning a profit in some time, and that she was only keeping it open to continue her mother’s legacy, who had recently passed away. Once the establishment has sold through its remaining inventory, this iconic fixture in Brooklyn’s Little Italy will close its doors for the final time.
The Bari Pork Store also announced its intention to close earlier this week. The beloved shop will continue to supply the community with its Italian sausage, mozzarella, and other specialties until June 30th, at which point co-owners George Firrantello and Tony Turrigiano will mark the end of this chapter. Outside of Bari Pork Store, patrons can read a heartfelt message from their team describing the situation:
“It is with a heavy heart that we share the news of the closing of Bari Pork store,” the message reads. “After more than 37 years of operation, we have made the difficult decision to close our doors. The current state of the steadily decreasing customers patronizing our store, inflation, and the cost of products to stock the store have all contributed to the decision to close. Bari Pork Store has been in constant depreciation, making an increase legally difficult to sustain our business. Unfortunately, the phrase, ‘support your local small businesses,’ has fallen on many deaf ears.”
“We would also like to take this opportunity to thank our staff for their tireless effort, dedication, and hard work throughout the years and for making our loyal customers feel like family,” the statement continued. “We would also like to express our appreciation and gratitude to our customers for their loyalty and support. We are proud to serve so many families over the years. While we are greatly saddened by the closing of Bari Pork Store, we are grateful for the memories, laughs, relationships, and experiences we have gained throughout the years. We will cherish this forever in our hearts. Thank you to everyone who has been a part of our journey.”
This sentiment was echoed in a brief conversation on Thursday morning between a store employee and a couple who live nearby. The couple expressed how much the community would miss the store, and how the neighborhood wouldn’t be the same without it. Meanwhile, the employee explained how their customers were like family to them, and how difficult it was to decide to close. Although the store persevered through many obstacles like the pandemic, a declining customer base made it difficult to rebound. “Let’s put it this way – our people who eat this food are not around. They moved out of the neighborhood,” Turrigiano said.
These recent closures in Bensonhurst are emblematic of a much larger issue. All across the country, similar specialty Italian stores are being forced to shutter their doors due to gentrification in historically Italian neighborhoods. Slowly but surely, many of the institutions that allowed Italian Americans to preserve their culture upon arrival in the United States are disappearing, and it is our responsibility to ensure that these businesses thrive for generations to come. So, the next time you make a purchase, please consider supporting a local Italian American business so that they may continue to flourish.
